Before starting to add deck beams, it is a good idea to stabilize the deck by lashing the ends together and also doweling the two sides together so they dont shift with respect with each other which would cause asymmetry in the deck. |
The deck prior to pegging the ends and dropping in deck beams. |
And here, at the end of the day, all the flat deck beams are trial nailed in place. You could of course dowel all the deck beams in place as you go but trial nailing them lets you do some last minute adjustments in deck shape before committing to more permanent joinery. |
The last two deck beams to be added are the two curved ones just fore of the cockpit. Shaping them is more time consuming than shaping the flat ones. Unlike the flat deck beams which are mounted 3/4 inches below the top of the gunwales, the curved beams are mounted flush with the tops of the gunwales. A batten is temporary clamped in place to show the curve that the deck stringer will take. The beam just in front of the cockpit will elevate the front of the coaming 4 inches above the deck. |
And here is a view down the length of the boat with all the deck beams in place. The number of beams, coincidentally is less than in a traditional boat to keep down the overall weight of the finished boat. |
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